Dirt to Glass: Elevating Michigan Wine from the Ground Up

The 2024 Dirt to Glass (D2G) Conference, held in Traverse City, Michigan, marked another successful year for the state’s wine industry. This third edition of the two-day event, organized by Michigan State University (MSU) Department of Horticulture, MSU AgBioResearch, Michigan State University Extension and Intentional Agriculture, was sponsored and supported by the major Michigan grape and wine associations: the Michigan Craft Beverage Council, Michigan Grape Society, P45 and the Straits Area Grape Growers Association (SAGGA). This was another key achievement of this year’s D2G conference, the unprecedented collaboration between all of Michigan’s associations, representing regions from both northwest and southwest Michigan. By uniting these diverse groups, D2G has firmly established itself as the premier annual event for the state's entire grape and wine community, fostering a statewide dialogue and reinforcing its role as a cornerstone for advancing Michigan's wine industry.

Held on Aug. 22-23, 2024, the conference attracted over 200 participants and featured a wealth of insights from local experts as well as national and international leaders. Attendees explored topics such as sustainable vineyard management, winemaking practices, and strategies to enhance the recognition of Michigan’s unique terroir. Through presentations, discussions, vineyard visits and critical wine tastings, the conference underscored Michigan's growing reputation for producing high-quality wines on the global stage.

Paul Hannah, regional wine specialist at Meijer, was one of the key speakers, emphasizing the importance of local retail support for the Michigan wine industry. He expressed his optimism for Michigan wines, stating, “Meijer is excited about the potential of Michigan wines and is looking for opportunities to support our vendor partners. Dirt to Glass as an organization boosts the visibility and quality of Michigan wines by fostering a deeper connection between local vineyards and consumers.”

Hannah further explained how this support aligns with consumer trends favoring locally sourced products. “We believe that as awareness and appreciation of Michigan wines grow, it will translate into stronger sales and more opportunities for homegrown products in the years to come,” Hannah added, stressing the importance of regional partnerships in driving future growth. His perspective underscores the role of D2G in promoting Michigan wines, helping retailers like Meijer meet increasing demand for unique, food-friendly wines sourced from the region.

Building on this theme of industry collaboration, Ron Bates, director of MSU Extension agriculture and agribusiness programming, highlighted the educational importance of the conference. He noted, “Dirt to Glass continues to grow as an important conference for wine grape growers and winemakers. It is an important addition to educational programming options for the viticulture industry and is addressing important topics facing the viticulture and winemaking industries.” This reflects the event's role in addressing critical issues within Michigan's wine industry, such as sustainable practices and innovative vineyard management strategies.

International experts also contributed to the program at D2G. Matteo Gatti, invited speaker from the University of Piacenza in Italy, shared his expertise on vineyard floor management, praising Michigan's evolving wine sector. He remarked, “It has been the opportunity to meet a relatively new wine industry that wants to grow, driven by an efficient synergy among university, extension service, and stakeholders.” Gatti's observation highlights Michigan’s collaborative approach, which is key to advancing its wine industry. By connecting global insights with local challenges, Gatti's participation exemplifies how Michigan is integrating international best practices to improve both wine quality and vineyard management.

On the topic of terroir, a foundational element of wine quality, Bryan Ulbrich of Left Foot Charley Winery emphasized its importance to Michigan winemaking. He stated, “The dirt, the terroir, is where everything comes from,” underscoring the crucial role Michigan's glacial soil plays in shaping its wines. Discussions at the conference focused on regenerative agriculture and climate change, reminding participants that Michigan's distinctive soils, shaped over millennia, are key to producing high-quality wines. This unique terroir continues to draw global attention, making it a defining feature of the region’s wine industry.

Several participants praised D2G for its role as a powerful networking and educational platform. Maxwell Eichberg of Stranger Wine Company said, “What D2G has become is nothing short of marvelous, and I truly believe it is going to make a difference in the long run for everyone involved in this industry.” His comment reflects the sentiment shared by many attendees, who appreciated the event's growth and the diverse expert perspectives it offered.

Mike de Schaaf, president of the Michigan Grape Society, also found great value in the event, particularly its practical applications. “I had a great time at the conference, and it was nice to reconnect or connect for the first time with my industry colleagues,” de Schaaf noted. He also highlighted the influence of Herb Quady’s talk and the discussions on cover crop trials, which he plans to implement at the Michigan State University Southwest Michigan Research and Extension Center to showcase innovations in soil management to the growers of southwest Michigan.

The conference's second day, which focused on field visits, was another standout experience for participants. These hands-on sessions connected theoretical discussions with practical vineyard applications. Esmaeil Nasrollahiazar of MSU Extension remarked, “The field day was another highlight for me, it really stood out this year. We saw great improvements in both the quality and impact of the field day.” This focus on experiential learning reinforces D2G’s commitment to providing participants with actionable insights they can apply to their own operations.

The need for Michigan’s wine regions to unify around marketing and quality control was another key topic at the event. Tony Jacobson, president of P45, stressed this during the conference, saying, “Klaus Gasser, Herb Quady and Dr. Vance Baird all provided important information to the Michigan wine industry, reinforcing our need to continue raising the quality of our products, working together to improve our wider recognition, and highlighting the need to unify our sub-regions to be a more effective collective.” His remarks emphasized that collaboration is essential to increasing Michigan wine’s visibility on the global stage.

In fact, at the D2G conference, Klaus Gasser, the director of Cantina Terlano in Trento, Italy, delivered a pivotal talk that offered a practical step-by-step roadmap to elevate small wine regions on the global stage. Drawing on over 30 years of experience, Gasser explained how Cantina Terlano transformed from a marginalized area into a world-renowned producer of some of the best white wines. His presentation emphasized the importance of focus at every step of the process, from selecting the right grape variety to implementing sustainability programs that benefit local grape growers. By concentrating on wine quality and aligning market strategies to highlight this excellence, the region was able to shift from marginality to global recognition and profitability.

Gasser frequently used the word "focus" to highlight the strategy behind Cantina Terlano's success. First, the region concentrated on specific grape varieties that were suited to its terroir, expanding acreage and renewing old vineyards. Then, it launched sustainability initiatives that supported both the environment and the grape growers, focusing on profitability and quality of the grapes. Finally, it centered on the quality of the wine, ensuring that both production and marketing aligned with high standards. This consistent focus at every level allowed the region to not only improve its wine but also recognition on the world stage, providing a valuable blueprint for other small wine-producing regions like Michigan aiming for similar success.

Quality and focus were also a focal point for Marcel Lenz of Leelanau Cellars, who found great value in D2G’s emphasis on sustainable farming practices. “To me, the main aspect was elevating the Michigan wine industry by creating a reputation for quality. I believe the main way to achieve quality wine is by using natural farming practices, and I found that the D2G conference had a heavy focus on this concept,” Lenz shared. This focus on sustainability and quality is clearly resonating within the industry, as more growers look to natural methods to enhance their products.

Sponsors of the event echoed this sentiment, with Tom Jaenicke, executive director of (SAGGA, noting the valuable connections between vineyard practices and wine quality. “We look forward to sponsoring and participating in the program next year,” Jaenicke said, reflecting the continued strong support D2G receives from the region’s grape growers. Adding that “as an event sponsor, the SAGGA had members in attendance and volunteering where needed and the education program did a great job of linking what happens in the vineyard to what is enjoyed in a glass of Michigan wine.”

As the Michigan wine industry continues to grow, D2G has evolved far beyond just an annual conference. It has become a driving force for transformation, innovation and quality enhancement across the Michigan grape and wine industry. Each edition of D2G fosters a synergy between local expertise and international insights, bringing together growers, winemakers, researchers, stakeholders, retailers, wine import companies and sommeliers in a collaborative exchange of ideas. D2G is not just about education; it’s about shaping the future of Michigan wine on a global stage. From cutting-edge sustainable farming practices to innovative marketing strategies, D2G this year showcased several tools needed to stay competitive in the ever-evolving global market. Each year, the relationships forged, and knowledge shared at D2G help elevate Michigan’s reputation as a premier wine-producing region.

As global interest in terroir-driven, quality wines grow, Michigan is increasingly recognized for its distinct soil compositions, unique climate, and the exceptional wines they produce. Through these collective efforts, Michigan is not just keeping pace; it’s becoming a key player in the global wine scene. D2G doesn’t just talk about the future, it’s building it, ensuring that Michigan’s wine industry doesn’t merely participate in the global market but leads it with innovation, sustainability and a commitment to quality.

This work is supported by the Crop Protection and Pest Management Program [grant no 2024-70006-43569] from the USDA National Institute of Food and Agriculture. Any opinions, findings, conclusions, or recommendations expressed in this publication are those of the author(s) and do not necessarily reflect the view of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.